Har Ki Dun – Dec 2015

Ye hasin waadiyan ye khula aasama

Aagaye hum kahan ae mere Sajana!!!

I can do it! I don’t think I can do it! Will I be able to do it? How cold can it be? (-22 degrees apparently)

There were millions of such thoughts when we (me, my husband and few friends) decided to sign-up for our first Himalayan Trek. I think somewhere at back of my mind, I always thought we would cancel the trip. But I am so glad we did not.

We travelled from Bengaluru to Delhi, and from there took a train to Dehradun. It is important to mention the Indigo flight experience. Unlucky for us, some guy was travelling with a not so properly packed whiskey bottle in the check-in baggage. And what should happen, the bottle broke and the only backpack kept next to it was OURS! The backpack which we had to carry for next 7 days (both of us are non-drinkers). The airlines compensated with Rs. 500 /- for dry cleaning, when we had to start trekking in next two days. urghhhhh!!!

Most of the fellow trekkers in our group met at Dehradun railway station. We had breakfast “north Indian parathas” and started for Sankri. No cell signal here on. We stayed overnight at Sankri. We were introduced to each other and to basic etiquettes of trekking. Next day we started our journey. The first day was the most difficult part of the entire trek. The ascend was much steeper which became even tougher because of the huge boulders. After that we either got used to it or it really got simpler. We would walk through the day, know each other better, discuss heaven and hell, sing songs, admire the untouched mountains, encourage each other and relax/play when we reach the campsite. The food was just amazing; we would forget all the day’s fatigue when rajma chawal or gulab jamun or fryums were served. Indiahikes is known for its food. Evenings would include sharing stories, singing, dancing, playing uno and the most awaited ginger tea. With no technology around we had to resort to actual human communications. We would share plates and mugs for dinner so as to avoid washing in ice cold water. We would dance to avoid frozen toes.

Photo credits : Raghu

I think the most amazing thing was when we reached the final campsite. We walked three days to reach there. And it was snow all around. The wind was icy, the view was majestic. We were tired, we were shivering but we felt accomplished. After a night at the “Har ki Dun Campsite”, we were done and we just wanted to go back. All trekking, all enthusiasm was taken away by cold. We wanted beds, hot water baths, proper brushing. If I could go back, I would tell myself to enjoy till it lasts – because now I would say it was one hell of an experience.

Trekking at that height (13K feet), with that temperature (-22 degrees) is probably the most physically challenging thing I have done. And I made lasting friends in those 7 days, as if I have lived eternity with them. When I look back at those days what I appreciate the most is the mountains untouched by technology, filled with innocence. It was one hell of a sight.

There is a pleasure in the pathless woods,
There is a rapture on the lonely shore,
There is society, where none intrudes,
By the deep sea, and music in its roar:
I love not man the less, but Nature more.
-Lord Byron

Leh – June 2014

Probably the most extensively planned trip by far till date (as of June 2014). This was the first long trip with friends which involved flight travel and that too to Srinagar! We took flight to Srinagar and then drove to Leh in a 4 wheel (yes I agree 2 wheel it shoudl have been). In Srinagar we enjoyed the view of Dal lake from our House boat and loved the hospitality of the people. Our driver to/from Leh and around Leh “Mr Rigzin” was an amazing driver. We used to often ask him is it snowing in Leh, is it cold enough. He used to say “as we go up, the weather will cool down and so will the people”.

The view during the Srinagar – Kargil – Leh ride was breathtakingly beautiful. I have heard the Manali – Leh route is equally gorgeous. Next trip will be through Manali for sure! When you reach Leh (height –around 10k feet above sea level), it hits you – India is so damn beautiful. The low oxygen did not affect us as much, as we had a gradual ascend. This would be my advice to travellers, please don’t land in Leh directly. Let your body adapt to change in the air, instead of taking Diamox. If timing is an issue, return in a flight.

The sparsely populated Leh has a different rythm to it. People are courteous and less inclined to technology, the houses are prettier, food is delicious and weather is pleasantly cold. Due to time constraints, apart from exploring Leh we just covered Nubra Valley – the cold desert and Pangong Lake – the “3 idiots” movie lake. We did see lot of monasteries, the magnetic hill and visited the school again from the movie “3 idiots”. We drove through Khardungla - the highest motorable road in the world (around 18500 feet above sea level). We drove up the hill while it was heavily snowing. Maggi never tasted better than the one we had at the hill top military canteens (Khardungla as well as Changla).

The first site of Pangong just takes your breath away. The blue water, the cold wind, the snow white cranes in abundance. I still remember the view, as if it was yesterday. At Pangong, for the first time we experienced negative temperature (around -10 degrees) and we were not prepared at all.

The 2 hump camel ride in Cold dessert of Nubra Valley was one of the kind experience. And the tents we stayed in were just wonderful. At that height, in extreme temperatures whatever you get is comfort.

We live in luxury of ACs and heaters and soft beds with easily available groceries but when you leave all this and look beyond, the real luxury is to have morning tea with fresh air and the view of the Himalayas.